Fred Nicole
Fred Nicole is a Swiss rock climber, notable for his numerous cutting edge first ascents. Nicole was the first climber to open a problem with the bouldering grades 8B, 8B+ and 8C.
Like many elite rock climbers, Nicole refuses to grade his own climbs, suggesting that subjectivity and variation in climbing style make it too difficult to reliably grade problems.
Notable ascents:
- les Danse des Balrogs V13/8B (The world's first), Branson, Switzerland
- Radja V14/8B+ (the world's first), Branson, Switzerland
- Dreamtime. Cresciano, Switzerland. (8B+/V14) This boulder was once considered 8C before it broke and was downgraded to 8B+.
- Slashface V13/8B, Hueco Tanks, USA
- Fatman Sit-Start V13/8B, Fontainebleau, France
- Pierre Philosophale V13/8B, Fontainebleau, France
- Karma V12/8A+, Fontainebleau, France
- Hale Bopp, V10/7C+, Fontainebleau, France
- Terre de Seine, V14/8B+, Hueco Tanks, TX
- Terremer, V15/8C, Hueco Tanks State Park, Texas, USA - link-up of Diaphanous Sea and Terre de Seine
- El Techo de los Tres B, V14/8B+, Hueco Tanks State Park, Texas, USA
- Entlinge, V15/8C, Switzerland
- Amandla, V14/8B+, South Africa
- Repeated Witness the FitnessV15/8C, in The Ozarks, Arkansas on December 23, 2006. FA by Chris Sharma.
- Elfe, 8c+ in Grimsel, Switzerland (route, FA on 1997-03-01).
- Bain de Sang, 9a in Saint Loup, Switzerland (route, FA on 1993-09-01). It is the world's third 9a, after Action Directe (FA in 1991 by Wolfgang Gullich) and Om (FA in 1992 by Alexander Huber) Some have surmised that Bain de Sang is more likely 8c+. E.g., Iker Pou, who has repeated both routes, stated that Bain de Sang is a grade easier than the benchmark 9a Action Directe. Also, see Dave Graham. Fred Nicole and his brother Francois Nicole both assert that "Bain de sang" has been 'altered' after their respective first and second ascents, which may be why the grade has been disputed after subsequent repeats.
Trivia
- Nicole has jokingly asserted that Burger King Whoppers are his favorite food.
- Hueco Tanks is reputedly Nicole's favorite bouldering site, according to an assertion of his in 1990. In 2005, he opened new problems in this area that are thought to have a difficulty of V15 or harder (Terremer).
- Nicole made appearances in the movies 'Core' and 'Pure' by Chuck Fryberger films.
External links
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